It is difficult to understand the power that the Palio has over Siena until you experience it for yourself.
Siena is divided into Contradas, or neighborhood "clans", which used to battle for territory and for honor. The Palio now takes the place of these age-old battles and the winner is believed to be chosen by God. The city starts to prepare for the festivities a few weeks before the race which is held twice each summer, once on July 2 and again on August 16. The first physical sign of the preparations is the barrier that is installed in Piazza del Campo that divides the designated areas for the horses to run and for the specators to watch.
Next come the spectator bleacher that line the Piazza.
Flags fly high and proud.
Young men practice for the marches and parades with their flags.
Then they start to represent through the streets.
The horses are hand selected by the all of the Contradas collectively, then they are randomly assigned so that no one has a predetermined edge over anyone. I had witnessed many marches with waiving flags, banging drums, and proud Senesi singing through the street, but nothing had felt so intense up to that point as being in the Piazza for the horse drawing. People anxiously awaited as horse selections were made and prayed that they receive best horse and that their enemy receive the worst.
In the end, a few left happy, a few left desperately miserable, and a couple of medieval rivalries came to life right in front of our eyes.
Contrada Dinner: Pantera.
The mix of emotions combines into one in the same for each Contrada that will run the race on the following day. The Contradas dine in the streets and celebrate, hope and pray for their victory. Our class had the chance to participate in this event. It was a rare treat because these dinners are normally reserved for locals, but the Director of our school, Luca Bonomi, arranged for us to participate in this magnificent cultural event. We had a delicious meal and enjoyed some great local wine, but the best part of it was being in the middle of this Senesi dinner that felt intimate and grand at the same time.
Day of the Palio: Time to Battle.
But first the horses must be blessed.
Parades: more celebration and anxiety for the Contradas.
Final Moments...
All of the anticipation explodes in a ninety second race to determine the fate of the chosen Contrada.
The Oca Contrada Wins. They will march through the streets in this fashion for weeks to come.
The Palio is awarded and people disperse to celebrate or cry.
The physical evidence of the Palio was washed away the following morning, but we felt its presence until the day we left Siena.
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